Innere Stadt Guide

Stephansplatz is the geographic and spiritual center of Vienna, dominated by the soaring Gothic spire of Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral). The cathedral has stood here since the 12th century, its multicolored glazed tile roof — featuring the Habsburg double-headed eagle — visible from across the city. The South Tower rises 136 meters and can be climbed via 343 steps for panoramic views over the rooftops. Below ground, the catacombs hold the remains of thousands of plague victims and the internal organs of the Habsburg emperors. The square around the cathedral is the natural starting point for any exploration of the Innere Stadt — from here, the pedestrian streets radiate outward to every corner of the old town. Street performers, horse-drawn carriages (Fiaker), and the constant flow of Viennese life make Stephansplatz one of Europe's great urban spaces.

The Graben and Kohlmarkt are Vienna's most elegant pedestrian streets — a continuous promenade of Baroque and Art Nouveau facades, luxury boutiques, and historic establishments that embody the city's refined character. The Graben, originally a Roman defensive ditch (its name means "trench"), is now a broad, tree-lined boulevard centered on the Pestsaule (Plague Column), an ornate Baroque monument erected in 1693 after a devastating plague. The Kohlmarkt, which connects to the Graben at a right angle, leads directly to the Hofburg Palace and is lined with the most prestigious names in fashion and jewelry — Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Tiffany. But the real treasures are the Viennese institutions: Demel (the imperial confectioner, famous for its Sachertorte and window displays), Julius Meinl (the legendary food hall), and the elegant cafes that line both streets. Walking the Graben-Kohlmarkt axis at twilight, when the shop windows glow and the Pestsaule is illuminated, is one of Vienna's quintessential experiences.

Am Hof is Vienna's oldest square, where the Babenberg dukes established their court in the 12th century — predating the Habsburgs by a century. The square is framed by Baroque palaces and dominated by the Kirche Am Hof (Church of the Nine Choirs of Angels), from whose balcony the end of the Holy Roman Empire was proclaimed in 1806. Today, the square hosts one of Vienna's best Christmas markets and a regular antiques market. A short walk north leads to the Freyung, another historic square surrounded by palaces including the Palais Ferstel (now housing the elegant Freyung Passage shopping arcade and Cafe Central). The Schottenkirche (Scottish Church, actually founded by Irish monks) anchors one end, while the Kunstforum Wien hosts major art exhibitions. The area between Am Hof and Freyung contains some of the most atmospheric medieval lanes in Vienna — narrow passages that have barely changed in centuries.

The Hofburg is not merely a palace — it is a city within a city, a sprawling complex of wings, courtyards, and gardens that served as the Habsburg seat of power for over six centuries. The Imperial Apartments reveal how Franz Joseph and Empress Sisi lived. The Sisi Museum chronicles the tragic empress's life. The Imperial Silver Collection displays the dynasty's staggering tableware. The Spanish Riding School trains its famous Lipizzaner horses in a Baroque masterpiece of a riding hall. The Austrian National Library's Prunksaal (State Hall) is one of the most beautiful library rooms in the world. Heldenplatz, the vast square before the Neue Burg wing, is where history was made — from imperial parades to Hitler's 1938 Anschluss speech. Today the Hofburg houses the offices of the Austrian president and several world-class museums. Plan at least half a day to explore the complex properly.

Karntner Strasse connects Stephansplatz to the Vienna State Opera and the Ringstrasse, creating a vibrant pedestrian corridor that is one of the most-walked streets in the city. The street itself is commercial — international brands and souvenir shops dominate — but the side streets hide excellent restaurants, traditional Beisl (Viennese pubs), and historic buildings. The Vienna State Opera at the southern end is one of the world's great opera houses, and standing-room tickets from just €4 make world-class performances accessible to every budget. The Hotel Sacher, directly behind the Opera, is home to the original Sachertorte — the legendary chocolate cake that has been made to the same secret recipe since 1832. The Albertina museum, just steps away, houses one of the world's greatest print and drawing collections alongside major temporary exhibitions.